The Rhinos of Gorumara

Dooars, derived from the Bengali word 'Duar' meaning door, is actually one of the gateways to the Eastern Himalayas, forming one of the most famous forests in the Himalayan foothills, leading to the ranges of Bhutan and Northeastern India. The area is still quite pristine, thanks to a not-so-efficient tourism promotion effort.

Most of the places though, are not accessible to normal tourists and probably that has helped preserve its wild nature. The forests teem with wildlife, ranging from elephants, bisons, rhinos, leopards and other smaller creatures like sambhar, deer of various types and countless varieties of birds and butterflies. There used to be tigers around the Gorumara, but only a handful remain now. Most have retreated to the more dense areas around Buxa and towards the Bhutan hills. Its main attraction is the one-horned rhino, (Rhinoceros unicornis). But, as claimed by a renowned wildlife enthusiast, "Dooars will remain a major reason to visit even if it ever becomes void of large animals, just due to its sheer variety of birds."

Yes, Dooars is a major birding destination as well, among bird-watchers. Apart from the known varieties like the parakeets, jungle mynas and kingfishers, it is the home of the neelkanth or the Indian roller bird, which can be found in large numbers, if you have a keen eye. It is also home to the hornbill, which is very common here. The major destinations here can be divided into two parts – the more popular western part comprising of Chalsa, Lataguri and the forests of Gorumara, Chapramari, Chukchuki and Khunia. The eastern part is quite remote at places and even more thrilling and comprise Jaldapara, Jayanti, Buxa and Rajabhatkhawa.

The major river in the park is the Jaldhaka river, a tributary of the Brahmaputra river system. Gorumara is a significant watershed area between the Ganges and Brahmaputra river systems. The park is very close to Jaldapara National Park and Chapramari Wildlife Reserve. The Park was ranked number one amongst all parks in the country recently and declared best among protected areas in India by the Ministry of Environment and Forests.

It boasts of three of the biggest names in Indian wildlife – the great Indian one-horned rhino, the Indian bison and the Indian elephant. With a little bit of perseverance and patience, it is eminently possible to get a glimpse of all three on a weekend trip. Gorumara, on the bank of the rivers Murti and Raidak, is where people and animals co-exist, if not always peacefully. Located in the Dooars region, amidst mountains, rivers, waterfalls and tea gardens, with miles of green in all directions, it's a rare kind of beauty one experiences in this silent wild. Blissful with the chirping of birds and the call of wild animals, the Park consists of riverine grasslands interspersed with savannah woodlands.

Much of the forest is moist deciduous and sal (shorea robusta), is the most common and valuable tree. Teak, simul, siris, khair are also found here in abundance. Whether you take a flight, train, bus or car, a drive from Siliguri to the forest is a must. It takes you through Chalsa and is a very scenic drive where you can view a slice of North Bengal in all its unspoilt glory. The gate to Gorumara, a little after Lataguri town, is made of tree logs, and the most appropriate place to stay on a trip is at the Panchavati Resort nearby.

The Panchavati Forest Resort was the first resort to have come up in the area, catering to the increased number of tourists year-round who keep coming in large numbers even in the low season during monsoons. The forest is shut between 16th June & 15th September as it is animal mating season. A quiet place, right near the park entrance, the resort gives you a comfortable stay with all necessary facilities.

The resort appoints local villagers as staff and through a unique self-help concept, has made a significant economic difference to the lives of people here. All spices and food used in the resort food are locally grown by the villagers in the jungles nearby, with most of them working for the resort in some capacity. The must-see evening tribal dance portrays the local culture and is performed by local men & women. The lawns and playgrounds are well-maintained, ideal for relaxing, quiet evenings and refreshing, early mornings.

The rooms with their forest themes make a good setting for the mood and the food, with it's distinctive local taste, offers a tasty but moderate spread to choose from. Surrounded by tea gardens and lakes on the other side of the forest road, fishing is an added attraction, with the resort ready to cook the fish you catch and serve it up for lunch or dinner. A barbecue is lined up for the last day of your stay.

You can view large herds of elephants while on elephant back safari. The wild elephants of Gorumara are worshiped as Mahakala by some of the locals. If you choose to spend some time observing animals from a watchtower, there's a fair chance of seeing quite a few residents of the park. The view from the watchtowers is truly spectacular, with leopards, rhinos, deer and elephants in abundance.

The reason is a clear panorama view of the lake and a salt lick that animals frequent. But it is risky to stay there after dark. A must visit for bird lovers is the three storied Chukchuki Tower. The forest is home to many beautiful feathered creatures, with regular migratory visitors. Indian pied hornbill, woodpecker, sunbird, flycatcher, minivet, drongo and pheasants drop in during winter. A speciality is the Brahmany duck. Gorumara has extremely dense forests so some tourists go away disappointed as they do not see all the big five, and it has vegetation of riverine grasslands interspersed with savannah woodlands. Don't be surprised if you see a peacock perched on your window sill in the morning or an elephant wandering around your bungalow.

The park has recorded fifty species of mammals, three hundred species of birds, twenty species of reptiles, and thirty species of amphibians. It has a large resident population of wild boar, like the critically endangered pygmy hog. It is home to numerous rodents, including giant squirrels and the rare hispid hare and a large number of snakes, venomous and non-venomous, including the Indian python, one of the largest snakes in the world, and the king cobra.

To get to Gorumara you can take a flight to Bagdogra or a train to New Jalpaiguri, both are connected via major Indian cities. Prepaid cars are available at the airport & stations. Gorumara/Lataguri is 73kms, it takes about 90 mins by car and charge is Rs 400. There are many watchtowers like Jatraprasad, Chandrachur in Khunia, Chukchuki & Medhla for viewing wildlife such as Rhinos, elephants, bison, leopards and many other animals. On day one, you can take the 32 km jungle safari ride, visiting the Medhla watch tower and the Murti river.

Or else the elephant-back joyride at Dhupjora is also quite an experience. Day 2 can be spent on a detour to picturesque Jhalong & Bindu village (the last village before the Bhutan border), the hydel power project on Joldakha river or enjoy a tribal dance at an ethnic village. On day 3 you can visit two picturesque spots – Suntale Khola & Samsing for the Himalayan foothills flavour and Chapramari forest. Khunia junction just outside the forest interconnects eastern and western Dooars.

The entry fee at Gorumara is 40 rupees. You can only book safaris through the forest department. Jataprasad is the most famous watchtower named after the legendary female elephant Jataprasad located on the northern side of the park. There are couple of salt licks just below the watchtower where elephants are attracted by the salt. The Rhino Observation Point is nearby, in front of the forest bungalow. Methla Watchtower is in Kalipur eco village where a unique bullock cart driven safari is available. One can stay in newly constructed cottages in Kalipur eco village on the fringe of Gorumara, built by the State Forest Department. Chukchuki Watchtower is a famous Birding point between Ramsai and Lataguri..

The park's forest bungalow dates back to the British Raj era and is an old wooden rustic cottage which has a watchtower overlooking the salt reservoir and an interesting visitors' book. Accommodation is also available in Panjhora eco resort inside Chapramari forest. WBFDC forest lodge named Banani, as well as Murti Cottages, and Dhupjhora Elephant Camp, which has 7 cottages including the famous Gachbari or the tree house, all overlook the Murti river. Hornbill Nest at Lataguri and Ramsay Rhino and Eco Camp, which has 4 cottages and is located close to Kalipur, are also popular.

Use powerful binoculars, with night vision facilities, for best views at night. Jeep safaris operate in the early morning and afternoon and stop at viewing platforms, but these, and elephant safaris, can be hard to arrange unless you are on a package tour. Hiking is permitted on metalled roads with a guide, but is slightly unsafe. Gorumara is encircled by many ethnic villages which you can visit if you want insights into the lives and culture in forest settlements.

A live show of ethnic tribal dances can be seen every evening in Budhuram Forest Village. You can make your base in Murti to explore the less tourist trodden wonders of Dooars and lower Kalimpong hills like Chapramari Wild Life Sanctuary, Jaldhaka, Jhalong, Bindu, Paren, Caron, Diana, Jaldapara and even Bhutan.