A slice of Germany in distant SA

Tucked away in the heart of Adelaide hills lies the quaint and quiet little town of Hahndorf, so old-world in its features that were it not for its southern setting one might fancy oneself transported to some little “dorf” of the German fatherland.

Today, the little town is a popular tourist haven but this does not detract from the evident highlights of the place. You can still find the traditional bakery where bread is baked in true German style and the houses unabashedly reflect the popular half-timbered style of German provincial architecture. The Old Mill restaurant, built in 1864, was formally run as a flour mill by F Wittwer and later his three sons — August, Wilhelm and Heinrich — before it was turned into a wool store.

The founding of the village dates back to 1839 when 208 emigrants from Prussia landed in South Australia from the ship Zebra, commanded by Captain Hahn… The captain proved himself a good leader. Land was found for the little band under his care in one of the fertile valleys of the Mount Barker ranges and here the resourceful captain laid out the town which bears in his honour the name of Hahndorf.

The original inhabitants and traditional owners of the area are the Peramangk people, who named the area Burkatilla. They lived in the area for some 2,400 years. Due to European invasion, there is little documented evidence of the Peramangk people after 1850.

In 1838, Lutheran immigrants settled in the area, fleeing religious persecution in their native Prussia (today part of Western Poland). These immigrants lived in a close-knit, socially closed community, and didn’t participate in local government for more than 15 years after their arrival. St Michaels Lutheran Church in Hahndorf is the oldest Lutheran church in Australia with an active, worshipping congregation.

Hahndorf was re-named Ambleside in 1917, due to anti-German sentiment following the First World War. It didn’t revert to the name Hahndorf until 1935.

The primitive shelters soon gave place to more substantial homes, all built after the manner of those that had been left behind in the homeland — high-gabled and roofed with thatch, and the old-fashioned straw-covered barns with the bake-ovens built like huge ant hills some distance away from the house… even now, after a lapse of more than a century, Hahndorf retains, for the most part, the characteristics of a German village. The people still speak their native tongue, and the primitive methods of agriculture are still in vogue. One sees the good frau in the fields working like a man (it is the frau who does most of the work on a small holding, while the husband is occupied at a trade in the village or on the farms of larger landowners). The woman, in addition to the little troop of white-haired, blue-eyed children who claim her attention, has the charge of field and barn and house, and most capably does she fulfill her manifold duties.

There are more than 100 shops, including a leathersmith, jeweller, brewery, wineries, distillery, chocolatier, German-style pubs, bakeries, restaurants and cafés.

The Peramangk people inhabited this area long before Hahndorf became the first settlement in Australia planned specifically for non-British immigrants, and the galleries and museums featuring First Nations artwork and history are worth visiting.

The Cedars, the former home and studio of renowned landscape artist Sir Hans Heysen is just a few minutes out of town. Hahndorf Academy in the main street is a hub of creativity and heritage, with exhibitions, classes and an outstanding shop selling the work of local artists and designers.

Putlands Cottage, dating to 1840, is constructed of hand-made bricks, pegged beams and mud ceilings. Like many of the houses in Hahndorf, it is a rather humble abode, built by men and women intent on fulfilling the least pretentious of dreams — simply to have a roof over their heads. Such a sentiment probably reflects more exactly than any other of the true flavour of the Barossa Valley and Adelaide hill towns. While there may be many stately country estates lying half-concealed behind tall stands of trees, the prevailing impression will remain one of Protestant rectitude and order.

Situated east of Adelaide, deep in the Mount Lofty Ranges, Hahndorf was once an important staging post between the capital and Murray Bridge on the Murray River. Goods and provisions passed through Hahndorf on bullock teams bound for the great paddle steamer port and points north along the river.

Artisan food producers such as Udder Delights Cheese and wine producers Somerled, Landhaus, La Prova, Sidewood, and a little further afield The Lane Vineyard and Hahndorf Hill Winery are must visits along with Ambleside Distillers for handcrafted gin and masterclasses.

Families love the Fairy Garden, Mini Golf, Hahndorf Farm Barn and picking strawberries at Beerenberg Farm.

The menu of Hahndorf Inn can include a fortifying winter feast of pickles, pork knuckle and pie, with a shot of schnapps. Exposed timber beams and stonework, taxidermy deer mounted on the walls and a roaring fireplace make it easy to forget the time and age.

The Hahndorf Academy is a regional hub for the arts and heritage based in a charming 150-year-old building. Walk through its four galleries, migration museum, artist studios, and retail gallery featuring the work of local artisans. Other cultural highlights are the many galleries and the Angel of Hahndorf sculpture outside the Hahndorf Academy which forms part of the Hills Sculpture Trail.

There is an excellent selection of restaurants, cafes, pubs and bakeries — many serving traditional German fare. Several boutique winery cellar doors on the main street — Somerled, La Prova wines and Landhaus — also attract a large number of tourists. You can also visit Gulf Brewery for a local craft beer or take a guided walking tour to soak up Hahndorf’s history and character with Hahndorf Walking Tours on a bright and sunny day.

Complete with German-style architecture, monuments, restaurants, pubs, cafes and grocers selling souvenirs and small goods, you can certainly pretend you are taking a stroll through a small Bavarian town, and when you can’t make it to the real place, it is a pleasure to visit and spend the day or a weekend here.

The time of year when you visit Hahndorf will play a hand in your overall experience, so it’s best to know what each season will bring and allow you to plan your trip accordingly.

Like many towns in Australia, the spring and summer months of November through to February tend to be the most popular time to travel anywhere, for obvious reasons! Sunny and warm days, less chance of rain and wind, and balmy evenings make summer days exploring towns an enjoyable experience.

It is definitely worth noting that the summer months in Hahndorf are then also the busiest, so it can be a little harder to secure tables and bookings at the popular restaurants and cafes, and parking around the town can prove tough – you may need to be prepared to park and walk a little, but if the weather is nice, it can be an excellent option.

Obvious summer appeal aside, autumn – between March and June specifically – is a beautiful time to visit. The changing of the leaves from red and orange adds an extra special charm at this time of year, as trees line the streets and come alive in autumn. And since it is a little cooler, there aren’t quite as many people to compete with for the best spot in the pub.

The proximity to the Barossa Valley wine region means you can combine a visit to the town with a winery tour at any of the Barossa wineries.

The Barossa Valley and Hahndorf Wine Tour is the perfect day tour for exactly that. It has been designed to give you a taste (literally) of all the best parts of the Adelaide Hills. This tour runs year-round on weekdays (excluding Wednesday), because even if the weather is a little dicey, you can’t say a glass of red in a cosy town or winery while it rains outside isn’t appealing!

Views expressed are personal