A virtual sojourn through the wild

Corbett Tiger Reserve (CTR), containing Corbett National Park, is situated in the foothills of the Himalayas in the state of Uttarakhand. Pristine jungle and grasslands of CTR are home to scores of wild animals. Beautiful meandering rivers and countless springs with pure sparkling water sustain the life. CTR and its flanking forested area lie in ‘Terai Arc Landscape’—a landscape with distinctive flora and fauna. In close apposition to the CTR is the small town of Ramnagar and many hamlets of mythological and historical significance.

Bygones

CTR and its vicinity contains places of mythological and historical importance. Remains of the ancient city of Vairatpattan scattered inside CTR, Sitabani Temple, the historical town of Ramnagar, and over 100-year-old Forest Rest House Bungalows built during the colonial period remind us of the past.

The Land Sculpture

For the most part, CTR rests in the lap of the Shivalik hills. A major expanse of the reserve is enclosed by ridges and is bisected by a central ridge running from east to west. The slopes of ridges give rise to several small springs (locally called sot, nullas or gadher). River Ramganga enters the CTR by cutting the ridge from the northern boundary and exits from a cut at Kalagarh at the southern boundary. The average altitude of the reserve increases from the south to the north; the zones close to the southern boundary including Jhirna, Dhela and Pakhro have a lower average altitude than those in the northern parts such as Dhikala, Durgadevi and Sonanadi zones. The highest point of the reserve is about 1,100 m, which is near Kanda in the north. The landscape of the reserve, a blend of cliffs, slopes, gorges, valleys, duns, rivers, springs and a vast reservoir (Ramganga reservoir), is a visual treat for anyone who can appreciate the little gifts of nature. Wide grasslands with hills in the backdrop, herds of grazers, looping rivers, sunlight filtering through dense woods, dramatic sunset and sunrise are some of the beautiful sights seen in CTR.

The Plant Life

The undulating terrain of CTR is covered with forested areas, scrubs and grasslands. In these habitats grow scores of trees, shrubs, herbs, climbers, grasses, ferns, mosses, etc. Sal is the most abundant tree in CTR. The interior of dense Sal woods with glances of sprinkles of sunshine is worth witnessing! One also comes across more dense and moist forested areas (composed of mixed varieties of trees) with crisscrossing rills. These moist forested portions have luxuriant green growth of mosses, ferns, climbers, etc. Dense forested areas often merge with stretches having loosely packed trees of mixed varieties. Pure tracts of Khair and Sheesham trees (Khair-Sisso forest) are seen covering beds of rivers and streams. CTR is dotted with several vast grasslands or ‘chaurs’. These grasslands are often encircled by den se forests. At some places, scrubby areas with distantly placed short and thorny trees, and bushes, allow for a smooth transition from forest to grassland.

A seasonal variation in appearance of vegetation is quite noticeable in CTR. During late winters (December–February), many trees begin to show signs of leaf fall. A majority of trees shed their old leaves in spring and early summer (March–April) and quickly renew. Spring and early summer is also the time when most trees reveal their flowers.

After remaining plain-looking throughout the winters, the herbs and shrubs covering the floor of the forest, and scrubs, begin a display of their gorgeous flowers at the onset of spring till early winters. During spring and summers, flowers of Bhant, Kamini and Kari patta fill the forest with a bouquet of sweet aromas. During rainy season, the ground has a complete green cover with scattered colourful wild flowers.

Technically, the major forest types seen in CTR and its neighbouring areas have been classified as: Northern Moist Deciduous Forests (Sub-Group 3C), covering most part of the CTR, Northern Tropical Dry Deciduous Forests (Sub-Group 5B) and Himalayan Subtropical Pine Forests (Group 9).

The Animal Life

The diversity of habitats in CTR, and year-round availability of food and water ensure a high density of different varieties of herbivores and their predators. Being located at the interface of Gangetic Plains and higher Himalayas, one can also sight in CTR, a few animals characteristic of these two regions. CTR is amongst those forests in India which possess a high density of tigers. The mosaic of grassland and forest along Ramganga river is the favourite congregation point of Asian Elephants. Here, they get all that is needed to sustain—unlimited fodder and water, and mud for cooling their body. CTR attracts a large number of birds and is a paradise for birdwatchers. There are songs and chirps, tweets and flutes all around. All the major rivers of CTR are home to large reptiles such as crocodile and Gharial, fishes, amphibians, and certain mammals such as otters. Not just the large animals, varieties of insects such as butterflies, moths, beetles, bees, dragonflies and damselflies, and spiders are also abundant in CTR and its neighbouring forested areas. The animal life found in CTR and surrounding forested area is typical of Terai Arc Landscape.

Corbett Tiger Reserve Comes into Existence

Since ages, the vast forests of the Himalayan foothills were the property of ruling parties. Forests were exploited for various products such as herbs, resins, dyes, timber and fuel, but on a smaller scale. After defeating the Gurkhas in 1815, the British took control over Kumaon and the next few decades saw a reckless cutting of trees due to the increased demand for timber and fuel. The gravity of the problem was realised by a few administrators including Henry Ramsay in the late 1850s. In the subsequent years, with the Forest Act in place, felling of trees was done in a regulated manner. However, the increasing demand of wood for infrastructure development and as a fuel in industries and railways across the country continued to ensure a constant pressure on the pristine forest.

The condition of wildlife was no different. Himalayan foothills and their adjacent areas were known to be home to wild animals such as elephants, tigers, deer, etc., and it had sparse human population. The destruction of forests, expanding agriculture and rising human population exerted pressure on wildlife too. Shooting of big game such as tigers, leopards and deer as recreational activity was popular among the British army officials and civil officers. Animals were also killed for their body parts and meat, and to protect crops from being raided by them.

A few persons including two forest officers E.R. Stevens and E.A. Smythies realised the need to protect the dwindling wildlife and put forth the proposal to establish a sanctuary in 1916 and 1917, which was not entertained by the then Commissioner Percy Wyndham. Later, this idea was pushed by F.W. Champion and Jim Corbett. These conservationists could succeed in convincing Malcolm Hailey, the then Governor of United Provinces, to declare over 300 km2 area as a sanctuary in 1934 for five years, in which the shooting of animals was prohibited. With the passing of the National Parks Bill, the area was upgraded as a National Park in 1936 and was named Hailey National Park— the first National Park of India.

(Excerpted with permission from Rajesh Chaudhary & Vinesh Kumar’s ‘Wildlife In and Around Corbett Tiger Reserve’; published by Niyogi Books)