Sri Lanka: An island of wonders

The plane began its descent, and through the oval window, I caught my first glimpse of Sri Lanka. The island, surrounded by the turquoise waters of the Indian Ocean, looked like a green jewel set against a sapphire sea. The sun was just beginning to rise, casting a golden hue over the landscape. It was a sight that took my breath away, a fitting introduction to the beauty that lay ahead. My journey began in Colombo, the bustling capital city where modernity and tradition coexist in a delicate balance. The city’s skyline, with its tall buildings and busy streets, seemed at odds with the ancient temples and colonial architecture that dotted the landscape. But this juxtaposition was precisely what made Colombo fascinating.

As I wandered through the Pettah Market, a maze of narrow streets and alleys, I was enveloped by a cacophony of sounds and smells. The scent of spices, fresh fruit, and incense filled the air, mingling with the distant sound of a street musician playing an old flute. Vendors called out, their voices competing with each other as they advertised everything from bright fabrics to aromatic teas. It was here, in the heart of Colombo, that I had my first real encounter with the warmth of the Sri Lankan people. A vendor selling coconuts noticed me sweating in the tropical heat and, with a broad smile, handed me a freshly cut coconut. “Welcome to Sri Lanka!” he said, his English tinged with the soft lilt of the local Sinhala accent. As I sipped the sweet coconut water, I realised that this was more than just a refreshing drink; it was an introduction to the hospitality that would follow me throughout my journey.

Leaving Colombo behind, I travelled inland to Kandy, the cultural capital of Sri Lanka. The train journey to Kandy was a highlight in itself. The train meandered through lush green hills, past waterfalls that cascaded down the mountainside, and through tunnels carved into the rock. As the train climbed higher into the hills, the temperature dropped, and the air became crisp and cool. Kandy is home to the Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic, one of the most important Buddhist sites in the country. The temple, set against the backdrop of a tranquil lake, was a picture of serenity. The scent of jasmine flowers hung in the air as I walked barefoot through the temple grounds, joining the throngs of pilgrims who had come to pay their respects. The rhythmic chanting of monks echoed through the halls, creating a sense of peace that was almost tangible. It was in Kandy that I first experienced Sri Lanka’s rich cultural heritage. One evening, I attended a traditional Kandyan dance performance. The dancers, dressed in vibrant costumes adorned with intricate beadwork, moved with a grace and precision that left me in awe. Their movements told stories of ancient legends and battles, each step a carefully choreographed expression of history and tradition.

From Kandy, I continued my journey into the hill country, the heart of Sri Lanka’s tea-growing region. The landscape here was unlike anything I had ever seen. Rolling hills stretched as far as the eye could see, covered in a patchwork of tea plantations. The air was filled with the scent of fresh tea leaves, a smell that I would come to associate with this part of the country. I stayed in a small village near Nuwara Eliya, often referred to as “Little England” due to its cool climate and colonial architecture. My accommodation was a charming old bungalow, once the home of a British tea planter. It was here that I learned about the art of tea-making. The bungalow’s caretaker, an elderly man named Mr. Perera, took me on a tour of the nearby tea plantation.

“Tea is not just a drink here,” Mr. Perera explained as we walked through the rows of tea bushes. “It’s a way of life.” He spoke with pride about the different types of tea produced in the region, from the light, delicate flavours of Ceylon White Tea to the bold, robust taste of Ceylon Black Tea. As we walked, I saw women picking tea leaves with practiced hands, their movements swift and sure. They wore brightly coloured saris that stood out against the green of the tea bushes, and their laughter echoed through the fields. One afternoon, Mr. Perera invited me to join him for a traditional tea-tasting session. We sat on the veranda of the bungalow, overlooking the tea fields, as he prepared the tea with the precision of a master craftsman. He explained the importance of water temperature, steeping time, and even the type of teapot used. As I sipped the tea, I was struck by its complexity—the way the flavours unfolded on my tongue, from the initial hint of sweetness to the lingering astringency. It was an experience that deepened my appreciation for the humble cup of tea.

My journey through Sri Lanka wouldn’t have been complete without a visit to the ancient city of Anuradhapura, a UNESCO World Heritage site. The city, once the capital of Sri Lanka, is home to some of the country’s most important archaeological sites. As I explored the ancient ruins, I felt as though I had stepped back in time. The towering stupas, some over 2,000 years old, stood as silent witnesses to the rise and fall of empires. One of the most memorable moments of my trip occurred at the Sri Maha Bodhi, a sacred fig tree believed to be a sapling of the tree under which the Buddha attained enlightenment. The tree was surrounded by pilgrims, some offering flowers, others simply sitting in silent meditation. As I stood beneath its branches, I couldn’t help but feel a sense of reverence. The atmosphere was one of profound peace, a stark contrast to the chaos of the outside world.

From the ancient cities, I made my way to the southern coast, where the pace of life slowed to the rhythm of the waves. The coastal town of Galle was a charming blend of old and new, with its well-preserved colonial architecture and vibrant street life. I spent my days wandering through the narrow streets of the Galle Fort, a UNESCO World Heritage site. The fort’s walls, built by the Portuguese and later fortified by the Dutch, offered stunning views of the ocean. Inside the fort, the streets were lined with boutique hotels, art galleries, and cafes. It was here that I met a local artist named Ruwan. Ruwan’s studio was a small, cluttered space filled with canvases of all sizes. His paintings, vibrant and full of life, depicted scenes from everyday Sri Lankan life—fishermen hauling in their nets, women in saris walking through the markets, children playing on the beach. “Sri Lanka is my muse,” he said with a smile as he showed me around his studio. “The people, the colours, the landscapes—they inspire me every day.”

One evening, as the sun dipped below the horizon, Ruwan took me to his favourite spot on the beach, just outside the fort. We sat on the sand, watching the fishermen return with their catch. The sky was ablaze with shades of orange and pink, and the sound of the waves was the only thing that broke the silence. It was a moment of pure tranquillity, one that I wished I could capture and take home with me. My last stop was the town of Ella, nestled in the mountains. The journey to Ella was an adventure in itself. The road wound its way through thick forests and over bridges that spanned deep valleys. As we climbed higher into the mountains, the landscape changed once again. The air became cooler, and the hills were covered in a dense blanket of mist.

Ella was a place that seemed to exist outside of time. The town’s main street was lined with small cafes and guesthouses, each offering stunning views of the surrounding mountains. One morning, I set out on a hike to Little Adam’s Peak, a popular trekking destination in the area. The trail was steep, but the views from the top were worth every step. From the summit, I could see for miles—the lush green hills stretching out before me, the valleys filled with mist, and the distant outline of the ocean on the horizon. As I stood there, taking in the breathtaking scenery, I reflected on my journey through Sri Lanka. It was a country that had surprised and delighted me at every turn. From the bustling streets of Colombo to the serene temples of Kandy, from the tea-covered hills of Nuwara Eliya to the ancient ruins of Anuradhapura, and from the coastal charm of Galle to the misty mountains of Ella, Sri Lanka had captured my heart.

But more than the landscapes, it was the people who left the deepest impression on me. The vendor in Colombo who welcomed me with a coconut, the caretaker in Nuwara Eliya who shared his knowledge of tea, the artist in Galle who found inspiration in everyday life, and the countless others who greeted me with smiles and open hearts—these were the moments that made my journey truly unforgettable. As I boarded the plane to leave Sri Lanka, I felt a pang of sadness. But I knew that the memories I had made here would stay with me forever. Sri Lanka was more than just a destination; it was an experience, one that had touched my soul and left me longing to return.

The writer is a freelance travel journalist