A sojourn in the winter wonderland

Arunachal Pradesh, the easternmost state of India, often remains veiled in mystery, with its pristine landscapes and diverse cultures. While it is a mesmerizing destination throughout the year, it takes on an entirely different charm during the winter months. This travelogue recounts my unforgettable journey to Arunachal Pradesh in the heart of winter, where I discovered a magical land shrouded in mist, festooned with snow-capped peaks, and teeming with vibrant cultures.

Day 1: A gateway to paradise — Guwahati to Itanagar

My adventure began in the bustling city of Guwahati, Assam. From here, I embarked on a picturesque drive through the lush Brahmaputra Valley to reach Arunachal Pradesh’s capital, Itanagar. The journey was a visual feast, with mist-covered hills, terraced paddy fields, and colourful prayer flags adorning the landscape.

Upon reaching Itanagar, I was struck by the warmth and hospitality of the locals, who introduced me to their rich cultural heritage. I visited the Ita Fort, an architectural marvel from the 14th century, and the Ganga Lake, a tranquil oasis surrounded by lush greenery. The distinct tribal influence on the city’s culture and traditions left a lasting impression.

Day 2: A world of tribes — exploring Itanagar

The second day was dedicated to exploring Itanagar’s cultural and historical facets. The Jawaharlal Nehru State Museum offered an insightful glimpse into the various tribes of Arunachal Pradesh, showcasing their unique attire, traditions, and artifacts.

My visit to the nearby Gompa or Buddhist monastery was equally enlightening, providing an opportunity to learn about the region’s spiritual practices and soak in the serene ambiance. It was here that I tasted some delicious momos, a popular Tibetan snack, which left my taste buds yearning for more.

Day 3: The road less travelled — Dirang

My journey continued as I left the state capital behind, heading towards Dirang, a picturesque town nestled in the Kameng district. The drive was a marvel, taking me through thick forests, along the turbulent Kameng River, and up narrow mountain roads.

Upon reaching Dirang, I was greeted by a breathtaking sight — Dirang Dzong, a fort-like structure perched on a hill, and the Dirang Hot Springs, where I relaxed in the healing waters surrounded by snow-capped peaks. The charm of Dirang lay in its serenity and the ever-present views of the Eastern Himalayas.

Day 4: In the lap of nature — Sela Pass and Tawang

An early start led me through the heart of Arunachal Pradesh as I drove towards Sela Pass, which stood at a lofty altitude of 13,700 feet. The pass was a wonderland, blanketed in snow, with its pristine lakes and vibrant prayer flags, making it one of the most picturesque locations I had ever witnessed.

Continuing the journey, I reached the sacred town of Tawang, famous for its 400-year-old Tawang Monastery. The monastery, surrounded by snowy peaks, exuded an air of tranquility that was almost surreal. I attended a prayer session and explored the town’s vibrant bazaars, showcasing local handicrafts and textiles.

Day 5: A glimpse into monastic life — Tawang Monastery

The fifth day was dedicated to exploring the Tawang Monastery, the second-largest monastery in the world after the Potala Palace in Lhasa, Tibet. As I entered its massive courtyard, I was spellbound by the intricate architecture and the serene atmosphere. Inside, I had the opportunity to interact with the monks and witness their way of life. The library, housing ancient manuscripts and thangkas, was a treasure trove of knowledge.

In the evening, I visited the Tawang War Memorial, dedicated to the soldiers who sacrificed their lives during the 1962 Indo-China war. The memorial provided a solemn reminder of the region’s history and the bravery of its people.

Day 6: Exploring the hidden gems — Bum La Pass and PTSO Lake

The following day, I embarked on a thrilling excursion to Bum La Pass, located at the Indo-China border. The journey was not for the faint-hearted, with steep mountain roads, but the views were worth every twist and turn. At Bum La Pass, the military personnel shared stories of bravery and the significance of the border in guarding the nation’s sovereignty.

My day ended at the enchanting Pangong Tso (PTSO) Lake, which sparkled under the winter sun. The pristine blue waters surrounded by snow-covered peaks offered a mesmerizing sight. I was left awe-inspired by the untouched beauty of this hidden gem.

Day 7: The journey back — Tawang to Bomdila

As my journey continued, I bid adieu to Tawang and started my descent towards Bomdila, another gem in the Arunachal landscape. The

drive was an adventure in itself, offering panoramic views of valleys and the changing topography.

Reaching Bomdila, I visited the Bomdila Monastery, perched on a hilltop. The monastery’s vibrant prayer flags and the majestic Buddha statue added to the spiritual experience. Bomdila was also an excellent place to savor traditional Arunachali cuisine, which consisted of delicious rice, noodles, and spicy chutneys.

Day 8: Enthralling encounters — Bomdila to Ziro

My next destination was the tranquil town of Ziro, known for its lush pine forests and unique tribal cultures. The drive led me through lush valleys and along the Kameng River, with every turn revealing new vistas.

In Ziro, I had the privilege of interacting with the Apatani tribe, known for their distinctive facial tattoos and nose plugs. They shared stories of their traditions,

farming practices, and the conservation efforts in the Ziro Valley, which is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. I visited the Tarin Fish Farm, a unique blend of aquaculture and paddy fields, exemplifying the Apatani’s ingenious farming techniques.

Day 9: Exploring the valley — Ziro

My second day in Ziro was dedicated to exploring the pristine valley further. I visited the Talley Valley Wildlife Sanctuary, a haven for biodiversity, where I trekked through

dense forests, spotting various avian and mammalian species. The sanctuary’s serene environment was a welcome retreat from the hustle and bustle of city life.

In the evening, I attended the Myoko Festival, celebrated by the Apatani tribe. It was a spectacle of colors, with traditional dances and rituals. The locals’ infectious enthusiasm and the festive atmosphere left me with a deeper appreciation of Arunachal’s cultural diversity.

Day 10: A farewell to Arunachal — Ziro to Guwahati

The final leg of my journey took me back to Guwahati, from where I would depart Arunachal Pradesh. The drive was a nostalgic one, with breathtaking views of the landscapes that had etched themselves into my memory.

As I left Arunachal Pradesh behind, I carried with me the echoes of its diverse cultures, pristine landscapes, and the warmth of its people. The winter journey through this enchanting wonderland had left an indelible mark on my soul, and I couldn’t help but dream of returning to explore more of its hidden treasures.

A winter wonderland beckons

Arunachal Pradesh, with its diverse cultures and pristine landscapes, transformed into a winter wonderland that captivated my heart. From the bustling streets of Itanagar to the tranquil Tawang Monastery, the hidden gems of Bum La Pass and PTSO Lake, and the serene valleys of Ziro, every moment in this magical land was an adventure waiting to be unravelled.

The charm of Arunachal Pradesh lies not only in its breathtaking beauty but also in the warmth and hospitality of its people. This travelogue serves as an invitation to fellow travellers to embark on their own winter sojourn to this enchanting destination, to experience a world of tribes, monasteries, and hidden treasures. Arunachal Pradesh in winter is a paradise waiting to be explored, where nature and culture coexist in perfect harmony, leaving you with memories that will last a lifetime.

The writer is a freelance travel journalist.