Embracing Kenya’s wild west
24 Feb 2014 2:58 AM IST
Why is it always the case that the further one travels north of Nairobi, the less stress one feels, the warmer the weather gets and the friendlier faces seem to become? It has a lot to do with the fast paced, often impersonal interactions and lives we lead here in the big city. On a recent journey into the Kenyan ‘wild west’ – as the landscape inspires, but known to most of us as Turkana land, I discovered that you don’t really have to go very far, to feel far away. This is the land where the Turkana people live alongside the wildest of animals (read scorpions), the harshest of conditions (sandstorms and all) and under the strangest of superstitions. All this and more adds to the allure and magic of the Turkana people, their neighbours such as the Rendile, Pokot, Samburu, Borana, Gabbra amongst other tribes and their land.
If one were to travel the less savoury of routes, by land that is, it would take you no less than two to three gruelling days to arrive, depending on the route you take and how fast you drive. But with that being said, and while it is possible to fly to the Lake in a chartered aircraft (and indeed flying is recommended for the furthest Northern reaches) flying to Turkana some what distills the adventure and if youre looking forward to the journey as much as the destination, going by road can be the best option. Despite the rough roads and sketchy security implications, those three days could be a part of the greatest adventure of your life. Now making this journey to the farthest reaches of our beautiful Kenya is not for the fainthearted, so if you’re looking for a sweet safari and to kick back in time for your holiday sundowners then think again. However, if reaching your destination and then making the most of that is your cup of proverbial tea (or in this case, bottle of Tusker), then flying to Lodwar, Loyangalani or even Loichogichok is a definite option. During those three days, most travellers choose to stop en route in Maralal, Samburu, or Marsabit. The journey winds through beautiful country, and travelers invariably encounter Rendille camel trains, and pass by tiny villages and nomadic encampments along the way.
The history and cultures of the Northern tribes are as varied as it gets and are written upon the soil of this trackless land and travelling through this area is a great education in itself. Both the East and West shores of the Lake each offer unique enchantements so take that extra week off work and give yourself time to explore. At the South East tip of the Lake lies the tiny oasis of Loiyangalani (‘the place of the trees’) which attracts many travelers to its palm groves, where a constant wind offers relief from the searing heat. Before arriving in the truly magical Loiyangalani, the landscape already begins to reveal itself like a shy young lover, a glimpse here, a peek there, then all of a sudden, when you crest the horizon and least expect it, the lake comes into view, amidst the rolling black rocky hills and the strange spurts of green.
On the Loyangalani side of the lake, lies hidden treasures (not unlike the recently discovered oil reserves) and stories that few have been privy to. One of the most curious things is perhaps the abundance of water. One can clearly track the path that the underground river or spring makes as it meanders through the landscape, starting at the lake, winding and bending its way all the way to the town of Loyangalani, where tall duom palm trees stand next to acacias. Even though you do not see the water flowing above land, you do see the abundance of trees that mark the path that stand strong and loyal like sentries to the spring. There is a well-maintained campsite and basic lodge here. Many safari companies and operators offer truck trips to this area from Nairobi, which can also be combined with a Camel safari further south of Loiyangalani. The Lake Turkana eco-system is amongst Kenya’s six World Heritage Sites and the lake is the world’s largest alkaline lake containing the largest Nile crocodile population. Needless to say, the feeling one gets as they make their way down to the lake, is that it isnt one you feel like splashing around in, particularly from the Loiyangalani side of the Lake. Loiyangalani is a great place to use as a base from where you can take a boat to South Island National Park or even a rather challenging hike up nearby Mt. Kulal.
Another great location to visit in Turkana is the El Molo Bay which is home to Kenya’s smallest tribe, the El Molo. Their numbers continue to dwindle through intermarriages with the Turkana and Samburu tribes thus resulting in a linguistic and cultural absorption into their communities. One of the last true hunter-gatherer communities, the El Molo are centered on this small bay, which is also a good place to spot crocodiles and birdlife. Outside influence has been slow to reach this distant frontier, and the El Molo, Turkana and other communities along the Lakeshores still live lives dictated by tradition, myth and custom. In many places here, life continues unchanged as it has for centuries and therein lies the appeal of paths less traversed.
Other than Loiyangalani, there is the Sibiloi National Park which is for the more adventurous of souls, which has been recently awared a World Heritage Site status. After traversing hundreds of kilometers of a landscape mixed with desert and savanah, Sibiloi National Park is a wonderful treat to set your sights upon. There is plenty of open grassland and plenty of game. Animals such as the giraffe, ostrich, hippos, topi and if youre lucky, an occasional lion and cheetah have all been spotted in the park. If youre keen on visiting Western Turkana, the more accessible part of Turkana land, coming by road is much easier through Kitale and Lodwar and then if you fancy, onto Ferguson’s Gulf where there is a basic lodge orignially intended for those looking for a fishing holiday. Further north from there, approximately 60kms is the beautiful Eliye Springs, which is home to spring fed oases, large crocodile populations, and many quaint Turkana villages. Here you can also find several simple options for accomodation. No one can say exactly how long the Samburu or Turkana or Rendile have been around for, but one thing is clear – their personal identity expressed through their personal style. In this modern world, we’ve come to believe that fashion is a new idea, indulged in only by those who can afford to. The reality however, is very different.
Guides and boats are aplenty if you’re keen on making trips around the lake with specialised fishing trips for catching the prized Nile Perch amongst other fish. This area is perfect for those who still want to enjoy the adventure of traveling to this wild frontier, while still having a place to kick back and relax, particularly in Lobolo.
Overnight fly camps on Central Island National Park can also be arranged. The island is a great place to spend a day exploring. Although only five square kilometers in area, the hills neatly conceal three separate volcanic crater lakes. A hike around the crater rims is an amazing way to spend the morning or afternoon, but make sure you prepare to brace the elements. Unfortunately, the delicate ecological balance of this region is threatened by increasing human population pressure, but the development of tourism- and its economic benefits- may just be the vital ingredient for the preservation of the communities, their cultures and traditions as well as for future
generations of intrepid travellers.
www.flickr.com/photos/quintessenceofether
Conceived by Kalyan Mukherjee, Consulting Editor, Africa Rising
Research & Advertising by Aman Ramrakha
If one were to travel the less savoury of routes, by land that is, it would take you no less than two to three gruelling days to arrive, depending on the route you take and how fast you drive. But with that being said, and while it is possible to fly to the Lake in a chartered aircraft (and indeed flying is recommended for the furthest Northern reaches) flying to Turkana some what distills the adventure and if youre looking forward to the journey as much as the destination, going by road can be the best option. Despite the rough roads and sketchy security implications, those three days could be a part of the greatest adventure of your life. Now making this journey to the farthest reaches of our beautiful Kenya is not for the fainthearted, so if you’re looking for a sweet safari and to kick back in time for your holiday sundowners then think again. However, if reaching your destination and then making the most of that is your cup of proverbial tea (or in this case, bottle of Tusker), then flying to Lodwar, Loyangalani or even Loichogichok is a definite option. During those three days, most travellers choose to stop en route in Maralal, Samburu, or Marsabit. The journey winds through beautiful country, and travelers invariably encounter Rendille camel trains, and pass by tiny villages and nomadic encampments along the way.
The history and cultures of the Northern tribes are as varied as it gets and are written upon the soil of this trackless land and travelling through this area is a great education in itself. Both the East and West shores of the Lake each offer unique enchantements so take that extra week off work and give yourself time to explore. At the South East tip of the Lake lies the tiny oasis of Loiyangalani (‘the place of the trees’) which attracts many travelers to its palm groves, where a constant wind offers relief from the searing heat. Before arriving in the truly magical Loiyangalani, the landscape already begins to reveal itself like a shy young lover, a glimpse here, a peek there, then all of a sudden, when you crest the horizon and least expect it, the lake comes into view, amidst the rolling black rocky hills and the strange spurts of green.
On the Loyangalani side of the lake, lies hidden treasures (not unlike the recently discovered oil reserves) and stories that few have been privy to. One of the most curious things is perhaps the abundance of water. One can clearly track the path that the underground river or spring makes as it meanders through the landscape, starting at the lake, winding and bending its way all the way to the town of Loyangalani, where tall duom palm trees stand next to acacias. Even though you do not see the water flowing above land, you do see the abundance of trees that mark the path that stand strong and loyal like sentries to the spring. There is a well-maintained campsite and basic lodge here. Many safari companies and operators offer truck trips to this area from Nairobi, which can also be combined with a Camel safari further south of Loiyangalani. The Lake Turkana eco-system is amongst Kenya’s six World Heritage Sites and the lake is the world’s largest alkaline lake containing the largest Nile crocodile population. Needless to say, the feeling one gets as they make their way down to the lake, is that it isnt one you feel like splashing around in, particularly from the Loiyangalani side of the Lake. Loiyangalani is a great place to use as a base from where you can take a boat to South Island National Park or even a rather challenging hike up nearby Mt. Kulal.
Another great location to visit in Turkana is the El Molo Bay which is home to Kenya’s smallest tribe, the El Molo. Their numbers continue to dwindle through intermarriages with the Turkana and Samburu tribes thus resulting in a linguistic and cultural absorption into their communities. One of the last true hunter-gatherer communities, the El Molo are centered on this small bay, which is also a good place to spot crocodiles and birdlife. Outside influence has been slow to reach this distant frontier, and the El Molo, Turkana and other communities along the Lakeshores still live lives dictated by tradition, myth and custom. In many places here, life continues unchanged as it has for centuries and therein lies the appeal of paths less traversed.
Other than Loiyangalani, there is the Sibiloi National Park which is for the more adventurous of souls, which has been recently awared a World Heritage Site status. After traversing hundreds of kilometers of a landscape mixed with desert and savanah, Sibiloi National Park is a wonderful treat to set your sights upon. There is plenty of open grassland and plenty of game. Animals such as the giraffe, ostrich, hippos, topi and if youre lucky, an occasional lion and cheetah have all been spotted in the park. If youre keen on visiting Western Turkana, the more accessible part of Turkana land, coming by road is much easier through Kitale and Lodwar and then if you fancy, onto Ferguson’s Gulf where there is a basic lodge orignially intended for those looking for a fishing holiday. Further north from there, approximately 60kms is the beautiful Eliye Springs, which is home to spring fed oases, large crocodile populations, and many quaint Turkana villages. Here you can also find several simple options for accomodation. No one can say exactly how long the Samburu or Turkana or Rendile have been around for, but one thing is clear – their personal identity expressed through their personal style. In this modern world, we’ve come to believe that fashion is a new idea, indulged in only by those who can afford to. The reality however, is very different.
Guides and boats are aplenty if you’re keen on making trips around the lake with specialised fishing trips for catching the prized Nile Perch amongst other fish. This area is perfect for those who still want to enjoy the adventure of traveling to this wild frontier, while still having a place to kick back and relax, particularly in Lobolo.
Overnight fly camps on Central Island National Park can also be arranged. The island is a great place to spend a day exploring. Although only five square kilometers in area, the hills neatly conceal three separate volcanic crater lakes. A hike around the crater rims is an amazing way to spend the morning or afternoon, but make sure you prepare to brace the elements. Unfortunately, the delicate ecological balance of this region is threatened by increasing human population pressure, but the development of tourism- and its economic benefits- may just be the vital ingredient for the preservation of the communities, their cultures and traditions as well as for future
generations of intrepid travellers.
www.flickr.com/photos/quintessenceofether
Conceived by Kalyan Mukherjee, Consulting Editor, Africa Rising
Research & Advertising by Aman Ramrakha
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