Eid without biryani? Kolkata says not happening despite LPG crisis
KOLKATA: What’s Eid without biryani? Much like Durga Puja is incomplete without bhog, Eid-ul-Fitr in Kolkata lacks the celebratory spirit without digging into a plate of sumptuous Kolkata-style biryani, complete with aloo and egg. But this year, the city’s beloved biryani joints are feeling the heat. The lingering LPG crisis amid tensions in the Strait of Hormuz due to the Iran-Israel-US conflict has put pressure on restaurants across the city. While domestic LPG helplines have resumed in phases and commercial gas deliveries have restarted, the supply-demand imbalance continues to pose challenges.
And yet, Eid in Kolkata refuses to lose its flavour. From sizzling kebabs to the city’s culinary crown jewel, biryani, restaurants are finding ways to keep the festive spirit alive. In a city that thrives on its cultural and culinary diversity, demand for biryani soars during Eid, both at dine-in outlets and on delivery platforms. To cope with the shortage, several restaurants have shifted to alternative methods. Popular joints like Arsalan in Park Circus have shifted to firewood cooking for their biryani. Others across Kolkata are turning to a mix of electric cooking, coal and firewood to manage operations amid limited LPG availability.
Asif Ahmed of the Sanjha Chulha restaurant chain said: “This LPG crisis is a nationwide problem. We are receiving only 30–50 per cent of our usual LPG supply. We’ve shifted partly to electric cooking and are also using coal. Slow-cooked dishes like haleem and paya are not being served at present. But there’s no compromise on biryani, especially in Kolkata. On Eid, it remains our star item. Demand always surges, but we are managing.”
Iconic Mughlai destination Shiraz Golden Restaurant, known for its matka biryani and kunafa, has also resorted to firewood cooking at its Park Street outlet. “We are getting barely 20 per cent of our LPG supply. With Eid demand peaking, some time-intensive dishes may not be available due to gas constraints,” a restaurant official said.
Across the city, roadside stalls too are gearing up with pots of biryani. However, the crisis has led to some compromises, at least temporarily. A few outlets, particularly in Salt Lake, have even done away with the egg in their biryani to conserve fuel. Despite the odds, Kolkata’s Eid table remains rich, because here, no celebration is complete without biryani.
