On the second day of the FDCI, India Couture Week 2016, two eminent fashion designers of the industry, Tarun Tahiliani and Anita Dongre showcased their collection.
The theme of Tarun Tahiliani’s latest collection,“The Last Dance of the Courtesan” was a tribute and acknowledgment to the highest bastions of culture, poetry, dance and finesse. The atelier weaves a story where sensuality meets sensibility and mystery unravels itself in surreptitious layers with seductive glory. His couture collection encapsulated the allure of the fabled Indian courtesans, sadly misrepresented in most of Bollywood as “fallen women” – In fact they were the custodians of beauty, fashion, poetry, dance and music.
Their ascendant star shone even brighter when in favour with royal patronage bringing the highest light through poetry, dance, song and more. So the designer chose to use the sheerest fabrics in tulle, sheer silks and light brocades mixed with fine thread work and crystals with contemporary notions of cut – the sleeveless anarkali as jump suit, the corsetted kurta drape, the shararas with tulle and gota, Swarovski crystals encrusted opal sarees, mother of pearl carved blocks with chikankari sarees and draped brocade lehengas, to be paired with shirts and tops. It was the perfect setting, the perfect concept, ethereal, yet real.
Whereas Anita Dongre’s theme for the evening was, “The Epic Love”. It opened on a free-spirited, lighter note with chintz-inspired printed lehengas that are teamed with Bohemian blouses. The designer’s signature gotapatti work breathed life onto the prints. The classic Indian styles blended seamlessly with contemporary long, column tabards which gave the wearer a beautiful illusion of height. The lean, sleek silhouettes brought modern relevance into bridal couture.
The beauty of this collection lies in its versatility – the Bohemian gypsy tops paired with a printed lehenga just as beautifully as it would go with a pair of silk pants. Fringe-finished sarees with tie-up tops that wrap around the drape added a contemporary twist to the classic saree. Stunning maang-tikas, large nose rings, intricate haath phools, chunky chokers and necklaces ornate the outfits complemented the outfits more aptly.
Moving gradually on to a regal palette, jewel-toned solids in rich wine, orange and the classic reds, creams and golds took the center stage. Gotapatti work is seen across the collection – first on the prints and then teamed with thread work. The monotonal ensembles of the collection gave epic love a beautiful end with a promise to brides for beautiful new beginnings.