Festival of lights & legends: Darjeeling and Kalimpong hills glow with spirit of Tihar

Darjeeling: The hills of Darjeeling and Kalimpong have once again come alive with colour, music, and light as the five-day festival of Tihar commenced with Kag Tihar. Known elsewhere as Deepawali, the festival holds a distinctive cultural and spiritual essence in the Nepali tradition of the Eastern Himalayas, where it is also revered as Yamapanchak, dedicated to Yamaraj, the lord of death.

The celebration began with the worship of crows on Kag Tihar, as people leave food on rooftops and open spaces for the birds believed to be messengers of Yamaraj. The following day is observed as Kukur Tihar, with dogs — both pets and strays — adorned with marigold garlands and vermilion marks, were honoured with affection and offered generous meals.

“Kukur Tihar has deep symbolism,” explains a local elder. “The dog guards the gates of Yamaraj’s palace, and mythology says Yudhishthira, the eldest Pandava, was accompanied to heaven by Yamaraj himself in the form of a faithful dog.” The animal also represents Bhairab’s steed — a reminder of loyalty amidst destruction.

The third day — Gai Tihar — coincides with the grand festival of lights, Deepawali. It begins with worship of the cow, a symbol of Goddess Lakshmi, followed by house cleaning and decorating doorways with marigold garlands to welcome the goddess of wealth and prosperity. As dusk falls, homes glow with the soft light of earthen lamps, or diyo, and young girls dressed in traditional Gunue Cholo, sing the melodious Bhailo outside doorsteps, blessing households in return for sweets and offerings.

The next day, Goru Tihar, honours the ox, an indispensable companion in agrarian life. Evening brings the turn of the boys, dressed in Daura Sural, singing Deusi, accompanied by the rhythmic beats of Madal, Chyabrung, and Jhyamta.

Both Bhailo and Deusi are more than festive songs — they are echoes of ancient mythology. According to legend, when Lord Vishnu, in his dwarf incarnation, sought alms from the generous King Bali, the king surrendered his kingdom. To restore the lost prosperity, the girls of the realm prayed to Goddess Lakshmi — thus emerging the tradition of Bhailo. Deusi, derived from the Nepali words “Deu” (to give) and “Shirey” (head), recalls King Bali’s ultimate act of sacrifice.

The festival culminates with Bhai Tika, celebrating the sacred bond between brothers and sisters.

For many, Tihar is more than just a ritual. “I never miss coming home for Tihar,” said Anish Lomjeil, who works in Bangalore. “It’s about light, laughter, and the warmth of home — and of course, Sel Roti and homemade Aachar.”

As lamps flicker through the misty hills, Tihar once again binds faith, folklore, and festivity into a radiant celebration of life.